This review appears in The Washington Post’s 2015 Fall Dining Guide.
Ashok Bajaj runs the two best modern Indian restaurants in the country, so where to go from there? Up, up and away in the case of Rasika in Penn Quarter and the younger Rasika West End. Poised to turn 10 in December, the original went under the knife in July and emerged $500,000 later with a plusher lounge and a better chance to eavesdrop, thanks to subtle soundproofing in its main dining room.
In a contest, Rasika in Penn Quarter wins my appetite and my affection, possibly because we've known each other for ages, but definitely because the food, by the masterful Vikram Sunderam, never fails to dazzle me. His duck vindaloo with red coconut rice resonates with vinegar and masala. Broccoli with mustard seeds, ginger and shaved coconut makes for a novel way to eat your greens, and who knew that quinoa, tapioca, cumin and pine nuts could add up to such a rousing appetizer? Rasika's breads are the flakiest; its Indian desserts, the most delightful. Kulfi rolled in candied pistachios and served on a stick is ice cream that brings out the kid in us all.
The restaurant, which takes its name from Sanskrit (“flavors”) and counts a dedicated sommelier, is so trusted by the powers that be that it won the honor of cooking lunch for India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi, during a state visit last year. A bridge between two cultures, the tower of chickpea-gold lasagna layered with ratatouille and circled with spiced yogurt was designed with a vegetarian dignitary in mind. Now it can be yours, for $16, at one of Washington’s all-stars.
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Rasika: 633 D St. NW. 202-637-1222. www.rasikarestaurant.com .
Open: Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday.
Prices: Lunch entrees $10 to $28, dinner entrees $17 to $28, pre-theater menu $35.
Sound check: 72 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.
The Top 10:
No. 2 Rasika/Rasika West End
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